Tic-Tok Review: Patek Philippe 5035j
The Husar Tic-Tok Shop located inside of Craig Husar Fine Diamonds is very proud to be the destination store in Milwaukee for luxury pre-owned watches. This week we acquired an extremely special watch; the Patek Philippe 5035j annual calendar. An extremely important piece of horological history, the 5035j was the first annual calendar ever created.
The Annual Calendar – a History
An annual calendar showcases the date, day of the week, and month on the dial. What makes an annual calendar special is that it only needs to be set once per year. It knows that April, June, September, and November all have 30 days and will automatically go from 30 to 1 following those months. The only time of year you need to set the watch would be in February, unlike a perpetual calendar, an annual calendar does not account for leap year. Patek also happens to make perpetual calendars, but those all run upwards of $100,000 – many times more expensive than this annual calendar.
The perpetual calendar was invented over 260 years ago by Thomas Mudge, who designed a pocket watch that kept track of dates, days, and months, and could even account for leap year. Patek Philippe was the first company to create a wrist watch with a perpetual calendar in 1925 in what would become their reference 97975.
In terms of watch inventions, the annual calendar is relatively new, invented by Patek Philippe in 1996 with the 5035j. For Patek, this watch was born out of a desire to create a highly complicated wrist watch, but at a price point more attainable than a perpetual calendar. Released at Baselworld in 1996, at a price of $17,500 USD, the 5035j was an instant success. At the time, Patek’s catalogue included time only pieces in the $9,000 range or the perpetual calendar complication that was upwards of $45,000. The annual calendar allowed collectors to have a highly complicated watch at a much more attainable price.
Patek Philippe 5035j
Extract from Europa Star Europe issue 218-4 – source: watchlibrary.org
Movement
Crafted in 18k yellow gold, the 5035j measures 37mm in diameter and only 11mm thick. On the outside of the case you have 3 pushers that allow you to manually change the date, day, and month. The exhibition case back showcases Patek’s calibre 315 S QA (Quantieme Annuel) which beats at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour. Here’s an excerpt from the original Europa Star article published in 1996 that explains how the mechanism works:
“By replacing jumpers, cames, and levers, by a wheel and pinion mechanism, Patek Philippe returns to a watch making concept, which is both “pre-Breguet” and highly innovative. This registered 3035 system, is indeed ingenious. Composed of 316 pieces, it allows, while preserving the movements chronometric qualities, to join the mechanism of a date watch, which takes into account the automatic alteration of 30 and 31 day months according to a yearly cycle which goes from the 1st of march (sic) to the end of February the coming year. The only manual adjustment which must be made yearly, is on the 1st of March, making the watch very easy to use.
Technically, a date-finger on the 24 hour wheel, advances the date wheel by one notch each day. At the end of the 30 day month, a second finger advances the wheel by one supplementary notch, to conduct the date from the 30th to the 1st, during a procedure which lasts one quarter of an hour.”
Dial
The dial configuration is also slightly different on the 5035j. The day of the week is located at the 9:00 side, the month at 3:00, and a date window at 6:00. Typically perpetual calendars (and other annual calendars that follow) utilize a pointer-date system where a 4th hand will point to a number on the outer part of the dial. Patek elected for a cut out date window that allowed the dial a more elegant and balanced look. The hands and hour markers are crafted in 18k yellow gold with luminous material, which glows very strongly under ultraviolet light, not something you find often on a highly complicated dress piece.
A Complete Set
We were fortunate enough to acquire this piece from the family of the original owner and it is in excellent vintage condition. The case is unpolished and it includes the original Patek Philippe box, and wallet with all the original paperwork, certificate, and even the original purchase receipt. Truly a remarkable find and an incredible piece of history, due to the special nature of this watch, it is available to view by private appointment only. Please inquire directly for pricing information.
